Join Helios to learn the most general overview of the 7 jewelry making processes at the factory thanks to skillful, patient and extremely meticulous goldsmiths.
Jewelry Crafting Process
3D modeling phase
This is the job of the jewelry design department . First, the most basic ideas for a new jewelry design will be formed. Designers can refer to available products, sources from magazines or online documents for inspiration.
After having a clear direction, designers will usually sketch out 2D drawings first (can be by hand - pencil, pen or software with similar functions like Alias ...) and then redraw them in 3D. There are also people who directly draw designs in 3D using specialized programs such as Modela Player 4, 3Ds Max, Rhinoceros, Artcam Jewelsmith ... These designs are then put into rendering programs such as Vray, Hypershot ... and perform operations of inlaying and attaching beads right on them. 3D model. At the end of the design process, we will have a realistic 3D model of the jewelry, with the exact proportions and dimensions that it will form.
Next, the jewelry sample will be exported to the machine to carve into hard wax models. Hard wax is turquoise or dark green in color. Its properties are quite special: it allows the wax parts to be bonded together, can be shaped with a knife, carved and polished.
After a solid block of hard wax (usually rectangular, which will be cut before being fed into the machine depending on the shape of the product to be produced) is fed into the machine, it will be carved into beautiful shapes depending on the 3D drawing it is based on. This is the first true 3D model, allowing the designer to see their drawing “realized”. At that time, they will study more carefully how to receive the grain, style, pattern details… of the product, and edit it directly on the wax block.
Create patterns and sculptural details on jewelry
The first method is done entirely by hand, requiring a highly skilled worker and a dexterity, meticulousness, and attention to every small detail. The necessary tools for this stage are scalpels of various sizes, small wax saw blades, needles, files, small drills, tweezers, brushes, and small lathes. …
The second way , the designer will complete the 3D drawing on the computer , then export it to the automatic model generator. The machine will give a complete wax model with the exact shape and size on the 3D version.
Rubber/silicone tissue compression stage
There are some jewelry designs that are “unique”, designed only once according to the customer’s request. But most jewelry is mass-produced, mass-produced. In that case, what we need is a lot of molds to cast many wax models, then cast the whole tree in the quantity that satisfies the requirements. The mold in this case is often called a model. The molding process is called a model pressing.
Stage of plugging pine tree and injecting wax
+ Wax pump:
The main device used is the Vacuum Wac Injector. In addition, people also use powder to hit the granules of the tissue or use silicone spray to spray on the tissue that has been used for a long time and is blocked.
+ Plug in the Christmas tree
The Christmas tree method can be used for many types of jewelry: rings, bracelets, earrings, and pendants.
Jewelry casting stage
- Wax melting and plaster mold firing
- Metal casting
Cooling stage, receiving seeds / stones
Cooling phase:
The task of this stage belongs to the silversmiths, they must use their skillful hands and meticulous techniques to complete the shape as well as take care of every detail (if any) of the jewelry.
Seed receiving stage:
For jewelry with many intricate details, many nooks and crannies or many stones, the vibrating time can be longer, up to 10 minutes. Other simpler jewelry can be only 3 to 5 minutes. This stage is commonly called "vibrating with gasoline to clean".
After the vibration is complete, the craftsman must go through the cooling process again, because while receiving the stone, the jewelry is scratched again. However, the scratches this time will be finer and less than the previous rough sample.
Polishing, plating, and jewelry stages
Characteristic:
- The plating layer has high adhesion, hardness depends on the choice of plating material.
- The base metal (the object to be plated) is not heated so its mechanical properties and shape are not changed.
- The disadvantage of electroplating is that when the plating layer is thick, the plating time must be longer. Moreover, when the plating layer is thick, its properties are also worse.
Sandblasting and machine stage
This is the final processing step, with the purpose of carving additional decorative lines with sharp or medium sharpness, matte or glossy... as desired for the surface of the jewelry.
Finished product of the manufacturing process
In technical terms, jewelers distinguish these products into two types: plain, that is, uncarved, and engraved, that is, engraved.
Engraving, engraving, machine hooking
This stage uses the following equipment: Vertical machines – that is, positioning the jewelry on a fixture and mounting it on a machine, rotating it by machine and controlling it by hand; or hand machines – the jeweler will hold the jewelry to be hooked by hand and put it into the cutting tip.
Sandblasting
First, the craftsman will carefully examine the details on the jewelry and determine the parts that need to be sandblasted according to the design or customer's requirements. The next step is to cut decal pieces that are large enough to cover the entire object and stick them on the jewelry. Use a small scalpel to lightly and carefully mark the detailed areas that need to be sandblasted.
When asked how long it usually takes to bring a product from “nothing”, that is, just from the drawing, to a perfect completion, the answer of skilled workers is about three days. In which, there is no stage that can be said to be the longest or the fastest. Each stage requires care and meticulousness to achieve the best results of that stage. And at each stage there must be a certain waiting time. That is not to mention the negligence that can occur when the operations have to be repeated and corrected to perfection.
